Physical Geography

Plains and rolling hills are the most extensive landforms in France, covering about two-fifths of the country. They stretch in a broad arc from the Belgian border to the Pyrenees mountains and divide into two distinct regions—the Paris Basin and the Aquitaine Basin. Elevations are generally less than 700 feet (210 m).

The Paris Basin is a roughly circular area that occupies most of northern France and consists of flat to hilly terrain rising outward from the center in a series of scarps, or ridges. Paris is in this region, which is the most heavily populated and economically advanced part of the country.

The Aquitaine Basin, an undulating triangle-shaped lowland, is smaller and less hilly than the Paris Basin and covers the southwest. Bordering the Atlantic Ocean south of the Gironde estuary is a flat, sandy area, known as the Landes. Other lowlands include the western Mediterranean coast and the Rhône-Saône valley, the only north-south corridor in rugged eastern France.

Plateaus and uplands border the plains on the east and also form the peninsular areas of Brittany and Normandy in the northwest. The largest of these is the Massif Central, which occupies the south-central part of the country. The massif slopes gradually upward from the Paris and Aquitaine basins attaining general elevations of 2,500 to 3,000 feet (760 to 900 m). Considerably higher, reaching elevations of more than 6,000 feet (1,800 m), are the remnants of numerous ancient volcanoes, which rise abruptly from the surrounding landscape. Relatively steep escarpments mark the eastern and southern edges of the massif. Especially notable is the Cévennes, which forms a nearly sheer wall overlooking the lower Rhône valley.

The Armorican Massif covers much of Brittany and Normandy and consists of undulating to hilly terrain, with elevations rarely exceeding 1,000 feet (300 m). Among other prominent upland areas are the Vosges, a range of rounded hills near the German border that vary in height from 1,200 feet (365 m) to almost 4,700 feet (1,430 m), and a small section of the ancient, deeply eroded Ardennes plateau that extends into France from Belgium.

The high, snowcapped ranges of the Alps and the Pyrenees cover much of southern France. The Alps run along the Italian border and extend westward to the Rhône valley, with elevations generally increasing from south to north. A number of peaks exceed 12,000 feet (3,650 m) above sea level. Near the junction of the French, Swiss, and Italian frontiers stands 15,771–foot (4,807-m) Mont Blanc, the highest summit in western Europe. Majestic glaciers flank the slopes of some of the higher mountains. The most notable is Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), on the northern slope of Mont Blanc. Alpine passes, including Little St. Bernard (7,178 feet [2,188 m]) and Mont Cenis (6,834 feet [2,083 m]), link Italy with France.

The Pyrenees rise abruptly from the plains of southern France and extend from the Bay of Biscay to the Mediterranean Sea, forming a lofty, rugged barrier between France and Spain. The range crests at elevations of more than 11,000 feet (3,350 m) just inside Spain.

North of the Alps, on the French-Swiss border, are the Jura Mountains. Although geologically related to the Alps, this range is much lower. It has relatively gentle slopes and rounded summits that rise less than 6,000 feet (1,800 m) above sea level.

Most of France lies within the drainage basins of four major rivers—the Seine, Loire, Garonne, and Rhône. The Seine flows from uplands in Burgundy and Champagne to the English Channel and, with its tributaries, drains most of the Paris Basin. The rest of the plains and the Massif Central are drained primarily by the Loire and Garonne systems. The Loire crosses the country in a broad arc from headwaters in the Cévennes and empties into the Bay of Biscay at St-Nazaire. With a length of 625 miles (1,006 km), it is France's longest river. The Garonne, which begins in the Pyrenees, and tributaries flowing from the Massif Central form the chief river system of the Aquitaine Basin.

The Rhône River, which enters France from Switzerland, drains the Alpine region and is the only major French stream that empties into the Mediterranean Sea. The Rhône and its tributaries, including the Saône, Isère, and Durance, carry enormous volumes of water and have been dammed to provide hydroelectric power. Other significant rivers include the Meuse and Moselle, which begin in northeastern France and are part of the Rhine River system. The Rhine proper forms part of the French-German border.

France has no large natural lakes, but numerous small ones dot the Alpine region. Lakes have also been created by dams on the Rhone River system and in the Massif Central. Saltwater lagoons dot the Landes region and the Mediterranean coast.

Much of France has an oceanic climate, similar to that of England and the northwest coast of the United States. In the Atlantic coastal regions winters are mild, with January temperatures averaging 40° to 45° F. (4° to 7° C.), and summers are cool, with July temperatures averaging 60° to 65° F. (16° to 18° C.). Drizzle, fog, and long periods of cloudiness are common, especially on the English Channel. Precipitation averages 30 to 40 inches (760 to 1,020 mm) annually. Virtually all of it comes as rain, fairly evenly distributed throughout the year.

Inland, particularly in eastern France, the seasons become more distinct. Generally, winters are colder and summers are warmer than near the coast. Precipitation averages about the same or somewhat less, but is more heavily concentrated in summer. Some snow falls in winter, especially in the Massif Central and the Vosges.

The Mediterranean coast has a mild climate, much like that of southern California. Temperatures average 45° to 50° F. (7° to 10° C.) in January and as much as 75° F. (24° C.) in July. There is much sunny weather. Rainfall, which totals 20 to 30 inches (510 to 760 mm) a year, comes mainly during the non-summer months. A cold, dry wind, called the mistral, blows down the Rhône valley in winter, sometimes causing damage to crops.

The Alps and the Pyrenees have severe winters, cool summers, and abundant rain and snow. The highest peaks are covered with ice and snow the year round.

Forests cover about one-fifth of France and are concentrated in the Massif Central, the Vosges, the Alps, and the Pyrenees. Deciduous trees, such as oak, beech, poplar, predominate at lower elevations. Conifers, chiefly pine and fir, grow on the mountain slopes. There are also pine forests in the Landes region. Maquis, a scrubby vegetation consisting of low evergreen shrubs and small trees, grows along the Mediterranean coast. Little natural vegetation remains on the French plains, which were cleared long ago for farming. Grasses and scattered woodlands occur in uncultivated areas.

Wildlife in France consists mainly of small mammals, such as foxes and hares, and a wide variety of birds. A few large animals, notably bears, chamois, and deer, survive in the more remote forest and mountain regions.